Lawrence Photographic

   

 

 Using the GF1 like a Rangefinder with a Nikon 50mm f1.4 Manual Lens

 

Taking an Example Shot - using my Menu C2 (C2-1) Settings - - - - -  Steps:-

  1. Switch on the camera

  2. Make sure that the Drive Mode Lever (in front of the Top Control Dial) is set to single image shot.

  3. Turn top dial to C2 (This is my CONTROL set-up for Aperture Priority, Dynamic Colour and a Manual Lens)

  4. The Exposure Meter is already set-up for 'Full Multiple Metering Area' (you can use the Fn Button on the back of the camera to change this if desired) This example shot will use 'Full Multiple Metering Area'

  5. The focus is decided by the Nikon Lens (The Focus Ring on the Barrel)

  6. Using the LCD (or better DMW-LVF1E 'External Live' Viewfinder) - check your image's scene

  7. Turn Nikon Lens aperture ring to desired aperture setting (it does not register in LCD/Viewfinder or EXIF File). The exposure meter works correctly and will change the shutter settings and shutter readouts as you change the aperture using the ring on the lens barrel.  

  8. Check your shutter speed (LCD/Viewfinder) against your choice of aperture setting (the exposure meter will select the shutter speed for you)

  9. As per your aperture choice and DESIRED shutter speed - Set ISO Choice (Using ISO button on back of camera)

  10. Taking the Final Picture (2 x Examples) - Use the LCD/Viewfinder again on the image scene:-

    Frame the desired section of the scene (e.g. a persons head) - manually focus the Nikon lens using the focus ring on the lens barrel (rock the focus ring until you gain the optimum focus point). If you require a greater focus magnification - press the * Control Wheel on the back of the camera and fine tune using the focus ring on the lens barrel. Another roll/turn to the right of the Control Wheel will further (once only) the magnification - now half press and hold the shutter button to * lock exposure - the magnification will cease and allow you to re-frame the overall picture (if required). Press the shutter button completely down to take the shot    OR

    Frame the scene and change the exposure setting ---- turn/roll the Control Wheel on the back of the camera (do not press the Control Wheel) to change the * exposure compensation. Frame the scene again and press the * AF/AE Button on the back of the camera which will LOCK the desired exposure setting. Now with the exposure chosen and locked you have the freedom to focus on any specific area. Manually focus the Nikon lens using the focus ring on the lens barrel (rock the focus ring until you gain the optimum focus point). If you require a greater focus magnification - press the Control Wheel on the back of the camera and fine tune using the focus ring on the lens barrel. Another roll/turn to the right of the Control Wheel will increase the magnification - now half press the shutter button and the magnification will cease and allow you to re-frame the overall picture (if required) -  press the shutter button completely down to take the shot.
     

  11. NOTE: The Menu System for C2 Mode has highlights turned on - so in play back image mode it is very easy to see any blown highlights in an image as they 'blink' black - you can then fine tune the exposure and use AF/AE lock again to take another picture (or move to full manual mode)
     

  12. C2 Mode Warnings:

    * The Control Wheel with a manual lens, changes its mode of operation - it is by default in exposure compensation mode. You must be careful when you press it because if you 'miss the press' you may roll it and change the exposure compensation.

    * If you have re-positioned the scene whilst holding down the shutter button beforehand - the exposure will be locked and may be the wrong exposure for the final overall scene. If this is the case you can use the second option - Frame the scene and change the exposure setting.

    * With C2 Mode any change of exposure compensation will always remain until you change it again or the camera is switched off, powers itself down or you switch away from Control C2 on the Dial and back again.

    * When using the AF/AE Exposure Lock, the exposure will remain locked until the AF/AE Button is again (toggled) pressed or the camera is switched off, powers itself down or you switch away from Control C2 on the Top Dial and back again).


I initially experienced an Infinity Focus Malfunction with the Nikon 50mm f1.4 AI-s Lens but finally after many tests, I tracked down the causes.

  1. The Nikon 50mm Lens with the Voigtlander Adapter and the GF1 Camera at aperture f1.4 does not reach infinity focus at the hard stop on the lens barrel - it is actually an almost 'immeasurable distance' just before the hard stop and when placed in the hard stop position the lens is 'very slightly' out of focus. This does not occur with the other aperture settings as the 'depth of field' increases whereby the hard stop is at infinity focus.

  2. When using a B+W '2 stop' graduated (screw circular) 52mm filter on the naked lens - the lens is thrown seriously out of focus in the final captured image. This is even after 'manually focusing' the lens/graduated filter and reaching a fine focus using the 'magnification function' of the camera and the LCD - a heavy tripod was also used. I have checked with my GF1 supplier who has confirmed the 'same error' when using an ND Filter on the GF1 with his own manual lenses. My B+W 2 stop gray grad filter on the Panasonic 20mm f1.7 Lens does not produce any focus problems in the captured image (at any distance).

If there is any Golden Rule - it is to always 'manually focus' the lens - even with shots that are thought to be an infinity hard stop setting.
 

 

 

If you have enjoyed this article - please donate to my Charity of Choice   -   The Sick Kids

Richard Lawrence
Scotland
United Kingdom